History of the Kudzu Cloth　Ohoigawa kuzufu

History of gross cloth
The use of the fiber is assumed to be very old, and to have been used for the new stone age. 
The photograph of [jun**] p41 Shogakukan of east information texture library * of "Moreover, [kusataba] and ･････ that the density wrapped the gross cloth and [kusanawa] of 10×13?14 because of a lower cultural layer (In about the first) in Chiangsu province Kure Prefecture straw sandals mountain (so encounter slander) ruins were discovered" silk: From history of textile technology of ancient china P35
cheng weiji science press newyork LTD

　It was considerably used for [shuudai] and it frequently goes out in Confucius's analects of confucius. Only it is not used for clothes, and it is analects of confucius [nide] to have used the gross cloth as a bamboo blind when meeting the noble. Surroundings..China..ancient times..dynasty..end..provide..destroy..founding of a country..capital..so..put..seal..pave..north..Nakahara..rule..west..present..)..capture..in the background of..east..do..capital..)..Luoyang..move..thereafter..dynasty..gradually..decline..one theory..Hata. Destroy..east..west..surroundings..thereafter..east..surroundings..good..east..surroundings..spring and autumn..Warring States Period..hit.
Analects of confucius..gentleman..hot..pile up..knead..vine..string..rare..valley..string..rare..minute..gross cloth..string..valley..rough..gross cloth..say..unlined clothes..put on..go out..without fail..further..jacket..wear..village community..chapter..describe..Mozi..summer..intermediate garment..inside..light..cool..say..vine..summer..clothes..suitable..one..say..one..willingly..use..show..silk. [Jun**] p270 Shogakukan of east information texture library

History of gross cloth of Japan

People made the cloth by taking out the fiber of the vine and the stalk etc. of a certain plant near themselves, and knitting and weaving it in ancient Japan before cotton and hemp's entering from the continent. It seems that the gross cloth is one of such the cloths. It might have been one of the rough strangeness (rough bore). 
The gross cloth that adheres the Kyushu Dazaifu iris of the first term of the old tomb age to the mirror in the bay old tomb has been excavated. It is said that this is the oldest gross cloth in Japan. 　。太宰府菖蒲が浦古墳の葛布

The Japanese poem that coils round the vine is seen by several poems in Manyoshu. 
The raw material it can visit and it know the vine of clothes by the typical .."It is ..arrival.. [mu] in my turning over [te] clothes even it is [shinkuzuhara] o'clock of how many near the [ominaeshi] bloom swamp".. one. 
This continued by the made thimble (hakama to which piercingly and ~ skirt was bundled with the string) being used for the mourning dress and the hakama with use, and the gross cloth when it was "..kick.. [mari]" especially among aristocrats the gross cloth at that time until Edo period. (The present age is used. The Sichuan [dakoukichi] shop delivers it. )
The gross cloth was light, was good the permeability, and used for the hakama and the old ceremonial dress and the hakama for the coat worn over the armor and horse riding, etc. because the straight line that the samurai had liked was able to be put out in Edo period. 
当社所有の葛布道中着、裃。いずれも江戸時代後期当社資料　袴、道中合羽参照

However, demand as clothes of the gross cloth decreases sharply with the samurai's disappearance after Meiji Restoration, and the field and means of escape in the interior such as sliding doors and wallpapers will be found newly. The sliding door of the gross cloth has only a not long the service life, and embezzling a light-brown and beautiful gloss and has the deep-rooted popularity still. 

昭和30年代の当社の葛布織りShizuoka gross cloth (cup)= industry Ltd. of the present Shizuoka wallpaper was chiefly manufacturing the wallpaper from the vine, the Manila hemp, the paper textile, and the bamboo, etc. in the company that predecessor's father had established in 1950 for Europe and America. The wallpaper that can be done by 100% natural material is simple and indeed beautiful though remains now the sample book. The district of Kakegawa Kanatani in the Enshu area existed a lot of traders who consisted of such export, and had done one large industry at that time. A series of work of weaving with [tsuguru] and the fee machine was made a division of labor, and the house in which it worked like this around one company was scattered in the string that made [kazura**]. The voice to long for old times "Our grandma often sits on the veranda and vine [tsuguri] is [yattetayo] in old times" or "Heard of the sound in which it wove all day long", etc. still is often heard. 

昭和30年代の葛採り風景However, the amount of the order decreases sharply by the change in the rate with oil crisis etc. , the demand for the vine decreases gradually, and a lot of same trade people who consist of export are [tenhaigyou] [shiteitta] one after another. 
Thus, it is thought that it wants you to use it widely besides the sliding door and the wallpaper with the father's death in 1995 though it is a gross cloth that has kept being sluggish for these ten years or more, names the Oi river gross cloth newly, and the preparation for the product development has been advanced. It aims at the reproduction of the lost technology including the restoration and the research of the gross cloth from 2006 to Edo period. 
アメリカ、イタリア向け輸出壁紙の見本帳

Oi river gross cloth chronology
The vine cloth manufacturing is started in 1950. 
1996 quietness hill gross cloth ([shizuokakappu])1952 Ltd.
It is introduced to the dyeing and weaving α magazine by the article on page 4 in the gallery in 2000 the Oi river gross cloth development entertainments in 1997 when the Oi river gross cloth brand is started up. 
It is an one-man show in the Kiryu cloth reference pavilion in 2001 the Matsumoto craft fair exhibition 2001 Japan Creation 2001(Tokyo [bikkusaito]) exhibition. 
Japan Creation 2002(Tokyo [bikkusaito]) in December, Yoshiko [kazuranunofuku] Murai and 2001 the fine work winning a prize of "Princess descending of the present age [koromo] [ten] 2001" in 2001 The vine cloth plant dye is taken up as a trend of 03 years. 
The vine cloth is delivered to the Japan Folk Crafts Museum redecorating in 2001. 
Tokyo gift show exhibition in February, 2002 (Tokyo [bikkusaito])
Matsumoto craft fair in May
Nationwide traditional craft goods [tenkazuranunoobi] selecting in 2003
Sponsoring of nationwide traditional craft goods [tenkazuranuno] dress length selected nature [nunoten] [nunonu] in 2004 [shou] [kazuranunokasuri] shop curtain selecting ..Kyoto.. weaving
Toyota City of Japan Folk Crafts Museum [tenkazuranunoben;e] lattice crest in 2005 and indigo lattice crest encouragement prize winning (Enshu folkcraft society exhibition) folkcraft pavilion purchase
To the Osaka folkcraft pavilion redecorating in 2006, Oi..river..gross cloth..adoption..lattice..crest..sash cloth..Composition..select..genesis..Kochi..Shinjuku..interior..center..feature..exhibition..ozone..seminar..old..weave..dye..learn..natural..exhibition.
Ancient [oriten] participation in 2008

It is in the established business house that has remained at that time where the gross cloth has been made since the Meiji era of the shop from Kakegawa Sichuan that three including our company though there were 40?50 vine cloth ateliers in the west and the Enshu area in Shizuoka Prefecture at the season of the 40's since 1955. It was a vine cloth factory of the Kakegawa Okamoto gross cloth maximum scale. It is a shade of entry [kazuranunoasa] after Enshu [ori] and the calling plant cloth shift to the folkcraft gross cloth in the 1965's of the main current Kakegawa Kosaki gross cloth now. 

Gross cloths other than Enshu
The gross cloth in the Enshu area is woven [kazura] cloth was woven by the center of Kakegawa since the Kamakura age in Japan also on other ground though the home ..it not was in detail... 
1.It was woven Kagoshima Prefecture steaming basket island vine [tanashi] before the war. It used it for details and the vine kimono. 
2.Saga Prefecture Karatsu City [kokorozakokorozakazuranuno]
[Kagamiko] Matsuo has succeeded to the details vine steaming basket net fishing net etc. woven until about 1965 now. 
3.It was Matsue as for catching that there was a grandmother who had been weaving the gross cloth in the mountainous district in Shimane Prefecture until about 1965. 
4.There is width of the hand of the gross cloth (..[tei;].. [ji]) in the list of [**] in the morning to Ryukyu China. 
5.The Kitakanbara-gun in five village district and Niigata Prefecture in Kagawa Prefecture etc. describe it. 
The method of the Enshu area has been basically succeeded to though the gross cloth is woven of an individual level in other various places. [Kagamiko] Tadami Matsuo in [kaiyatani] [sachikosan] Niigata of Miyagi field gross clothん

- Overseas gross cloth
In China though the gross cloth is said after the age of Tang Dynasty not making as the commodity
There is information of being made in the coast of facing of the testimony and the Kainan island where the gross cloth was seen on the Kainan island. The hun in Laos seems ..cloth.. to be knitting by the vine. The gross cloth seemed to have been made also in a Korean peninsula in the past. (NHK The University of the Air)It seems that it doesn't remain now though the Japanese teaches the Enshu gross cloth in colonial times, and it became large industry after the war. 

　It had been done since before to make the fiber of the vine a taking out spinning string and to make the cloth. 
There is a description that makes the vine of for food alternative cotton in China and is a description that uses tropical [kazurataiwankazura] etc. for the fiber. In this case, it is not certain though melts the fiber with the medicine, and makes and spun it like cotton. It is called Ko Hemp. 
It is mixed though pants of the gross cloth were introduced to "Mail order life" recently of the vine and cotton. 
Use afterwards is not confirmed though the fiber was made a taking out fiber from the waste of the powdered arrowroot in Nara in around 2000. 

The gross cloth in the Enshu area uses other fibers for the passing string, and uses the vine string that doesn't multiply the twist by the weft string. 
Because the gross cloth that hangs details [yori] is seen here and there to West Japan, not multiplying the twist is subsequent. 
It was designed in the Enshu area. The luster that shines by not multiplying the twist of the vine is put out, and I think silk, cotton yarn, and hemp, etc. to be a passing string comparatively therefore with a fine thread. I think that I am structural of the vine cloth machine and design all [tsuguri] for luster. 

The gross cloth to which do the in existence after middle term of Edo period is all things made by the above-mentioned method. 
There is very a doubt though there is figure where the twist is multiplied by [kazuraito] at the latter term of large [zounagatsune] "[Kazura**]" Edo period.